Tuesday 14 January 2014

Mounting

Today we practiced mounting photographs for exhibition.

We each chose two images to mount which were to be cropped to 7x5 inches. 7x5 is a traditional size for printing photographs. To create a 7x5 image we had to apply a crop to our images as cameras of today don't take photographs in the traditional ratio. This meant that we lost parts of out photographs to the crop.

I chose two images that I had taken on film, one was 35mm negative and the other was a 6x4 medium format negative. I lost height on the 35mm image and slight width on the 6x4 image.

The first mount we did was a beveled edge window mount. With larger photographs i.e 12x16 or 20x16, and typically landscape images, if the window is cut centrally it appears to have a smaller edge on the lower side of the border. In traditional mounting practices, windows are cut to a ratio of 2:3:4, so for example if you had a 2 inch border at the top, you would have 3 inch border on the sides and 4inches on the bottom.

This method also derives from traditional printers where the images would be handled, the bottom border would be much bigger to allow for handling of the image so that fingerprints didn't ruin the photograph or the usable border.


This has now become a standard format to display photographs for exhibition.

I recently bought a poster of a photograph by a well known photographer known as WeeGee, the poster had this style of border but seems to be a ratio of about 1:1:5. The gallery used the extra space to add a quote from WeeGee related to the picture.



This space can also be used for a title, a signature, or for edition numbers e.g.  1/100.

Edition numbers are used when photographs are printed in a limited amount. Doing so is meant to increase the value of the photograph as there will only be a so many printed. This is usually done on large size prints as they are more desirable. Smaller prints aren't usually made in to limited editions. Once an edition limit has been set, the photographer should stick to this number and not print any more in that size. If they do so they decrease the value of the prints and invite criticism and discredit. It is likely the next 'edition' they produce won't be worth as much. Some photographers even go as far as to mark the negative or destroy it after making edition prints.

For our mounts we cut a card size of 8x10 to allow for a border around the image. We then had to cut a 7x5 bevelled edge window in the card. The window was centered in this mount as it is a small print.

We first had to measure out 7x5 window on the back of the mounting card.


I did this by measuring 1.5 inches in from each side 10 - (1.5 + 1.5) = 7 and 8 - (1.5 + 1.5) = 5. I then measured an extra 1/8 of an inch in on each side to allow for any errors in measuring.


Next you use the bevel cutter to cut an beveled edge on your 7x5 window. The bevel cuts diagonally through the card giving a slanted edge to your window. You can see that the blade is on an angle in the above image.
This angle shows the depth of the card and creates shadowing and highlights on the edges of the card. The slanting edges mean that none of the images is obstructed from view. If the cut was straight you would miss a little of the image, the edge might also cast a shadow on the photo.




Here is how the blade works, you push the handle down to start cutting. There is a guide line on the cutter where the blade starts to cut from so you know where to start and stop cutting. 



You have now a cut out window with a beveled edge.

Finally, you line up your photo and tape it to the card. If this was a professional mounting you would use acid free archival linen tape which will help preserve the photo and the card. The card should also be acid free and archival.  As this is a practice we just used masking tape.


You can see below that the left and top bevel is catching light and the bottom and right edges are in shadow, this is due to the bevel cut.

You then frame the photograph, the frame will be 10x8 inches for this size card and photograph.